Mine clicked just after a year :( so it’s waiting to get switches soldered cause I ain’t buying a new one but don’t have the will to do it yet cause I got my ancient G5 still. (I live in America, so doing warranty shit is a hassle, and I surmised it would fail again so I should just fix it now)

That’s what I mean, even e-waste quality razer isn’t double clicking!!

I had to replace the cable on my G5 after it frayed after about a decade, but after that it was back to it. Sorry you lost yours, and I hope you never double click on the G502!

(All the weights gang, build that wrist strength)

Mine is a G5, which looks like it lost the MX518’s sick ass faux metal and instead gets what I can best call “cracked lightning?”. I was too young to figure out mouse buying so the fam’s resident nerd chose that for me - I thank her to this day

One drive does suck nards, but for your double clicking; logitech has been using shitass switches to detect clicks for a while now. They sooner rather than later fail to click once. Only solution I’ve found is to replace the switches (hard mode), or keep using the logitech mouse I have from 2009.

It’s sucks, but you just gotta go for another brand. Even razer doesn’t have such a rampant double click problem.

Logitech enshitified their dominant market position by cheaping on switches - works for them, they sell more mice (if you don’t put together they’re the source of the problem and it’s not a one-off issue).

In incus, I had the same setup of an LCX container with a Docker container inside of it. I passed 1000/1000 to the LXC container but the LXC container’s default root user has a an ID set of 0/0. So I had to pass 0/0 to the Docker container, not 1000/1000 to get the read/write permissions working.

That may fix your issue as it’s basically the same tech, just different automated things implementing the LXC container!

Your budget is really near a https://store.ui.com/us/en/collections/unifi-dream-router/products/udr Unifi dream router. Your family is gonna be way happier with you (0 downtime) and it’ll give you extender options if you ever need it. Unifi is good enough and they update regularly, just disable cloud access stuff and you’re good.

Otherwise you want Opnsense instead of Openwrt. The upgrade process for Openwrt is not automatic, while Opnsense is. Worth it not to have to dote on your router.

And you should get an access point (Unifi something or Tplink Omsomething), wifi is problematic with openwrt and I’m not sure if opensense even lets you do it (haven’t tried).

And you’ll need a switch, dumb or managed, up to you if you want VLANs. The Opnsense box will have just one LAN port, so it requires a switch if you want to plug more than one thing into it. A switch with PoE+ can power the access point directly.

Opnsense needs x64 arch (Intel or AMD CPUs), get a small thin client like a Dell Wyse 5070 extended or HP T730 or that mentioned Fujitsu Futro S720 (its CPU is old tho, you can do better). There may be newer thinclients, you just want a mini PCIe slot to install some Intel gigabit card from eBay with 2 ports. Google power efficient gigabit mini PCIe card - there’s an older model that sucks power and a newer one that doesn’t suck; if you go more than gigabit skip 2.5 on Intel unless you google hard and expect extra power draw. Very limited point to 4 port cards, just go higher gigabit speeds don’t think about multiplexing ports or whatever it is called; and switches switch better than the router can and remove CPU overhead for more actual routing work - 2 port card is the way.

Slap Incus (superior but newer, less guides, LXD is previous name if googling stuff) or Proxmox (good enough, more guides for this) on it, make a VM and pass through the 2 ports of the PCIe cards, slap Opnsense in the VM. Make an LXC container and slap Debian on it and spin up the Unifi controller for your AP. Another container for adguard home or pi hole and you’ve got a box that does the basic nets all in one. The built-in port on the thin client is how you will access the underlying OS, it gets plugged into the switch you’ll have to get. If you got something with 2 gigs of RAM and an AMD Geode/GX or aged Intel Atom CPU I’d just only do Opnsense no hypervisor stuff.

Sorry for the info dump but there’s a lot of angles!

But really, the Unifi dream router is much easier and solves it all-in-one. You need 3 pieces (router, wifi access point, Ethernet switch) for a good experience otherwise.

It looks like regular PSUs are isolated from the mains ground with a transformer. That means that two PSUs’ DC grounds will not be connected. That will likely cause problems for you, as they’ll have to back flow current in places that do NOT expect back flow current to account for the voltage differences between the two ground potentials. Hence it might damage the GPU which is going be the mediator between these two PSUs - and maybe the mobo if everything goes to shit.

Now I am not saying this will be safe, but you may avoid that issue by tying the grounds of the two PSUs together. You still have the issue where if, say, PSU1’s 12V voltage plane meets PSU2’s 12V voltage plane and they’re inevitably not the same exact voltage, you’ll have back flowing current again which is bad because again nothing is designed for that situation. Kind of like if you pair lithium batteries in parallel that aren’t matched, the higher voltage one will back charge the other and they’ll explode.

Old AMD cards can be flashed with any BIOS that says anything. Maybe the card was used for a scam and flashed to say it’s an RTX 2070, it should have a switch to go to its 2nd BIOS near the top left (when slotted in). And if it doesn’t, you can just get its original BIOS off of Techpowerup’s database and flash it with atiflash, also from Techpowerup.

Picture stolen from some Reddit help thread for a red dragon RX 580.

This is assuming that Linux is reading what the card claims it is correctly. Which seems likely, since reading device IDs is a really important feature that probably works nearly perfectly.

It accomplishes the same thing as Proxmox (VMs and LXC containers, which are “lite VMs” for if you wanted a Linux VM), I recently learnt about it too! It is new, but it was backed by Canonical up until the LXD/Incus split so it’s very solid. Split because Canonical tried to control LXD heavily, so they forked and renamed it Incus.

I just used Incus and it’s very nice, use the profiles to create a profile for “GPU pass through” and “macvlan”, among others you’ll find you want. Then make instances as needed! It was easier for me to use than Proxmox.

First try an HDMI dummy plug, in case the thing doesn’t dig no screen (classic intel firmware)

Then try Debian + Incus, less Proxmox shims to go wrong. Install Incus via the “zabby” repo mentioned on the incus install page. Search for “LXD” if Incus help/guides aren’t enough for you, they’re the same thing (for now). Providing an ISO in Proxmox is really clunky, and incus smooths that out so nicely. And again, less Proxmox shims to go wronk

That is nicely expandable with my docker_compose files, thanks for the find!

Yea I likely don’t have a full understanding, just getting into this and all. That’s why I decided a hard req was to force the images to run in a non-root context. (I did succeed, prolly)

But the macvlan does have its own IP with the associated ports free and that will let the adguard home image bind 53 while the host can squat on it with dns listener stub or whatever the fuck it does by default. The macvlans is a recommended thing by the Docker adguard home guides to bypass the host or other processes already binding 53, I didn’t cook it up myself.

Anyway, this is the first I’m hearing of traffic or caddy in this context - googling those is not ez pz so it’ll take me a bit to know what you’re implying I should do!

Edit: I’m not gonna understand traffic or caddy beyond the surface level, the main pages are enterprise-focused so I’m not sure how they apply. I’ll have to wait to run into an organic use case (with wordy guide) to truly understand them, I think. (Other than traffic could redirect but it’s called a reverse proxy but I think, at least in this context, that’s a fancy word for redirect. So use it somehow instead of forwarding specific ports?)

Thank you for the in-depth explanation!! I’ll keep this in mind as I try to club my way through podman!

I have tried pre-making the network in podman directly beforehand, but because I want a second docker image binding to port 53 I was under the impression that I had to use macvlans

Huh you’d think macvlans would have an error telling me to kick rocks for trying to use it in a rootless state. I guess that’s why it can’t see anything?

Weird though, like why can’t I make the macvlans network interface as root and then let rootless containers connect to it? If I sudo make the macvlans network thing it lives in the sudo podman zone. Hm

Love the idea, but theoretically with this “macvlan” it will have its own IP address and thus have free reign of all of its ports and not have any conflicts

I’ve made it so the host OS doesn’t require root, are you saying I’d need to make the image also do that?

I see, I’ll check that out and also check out how to ascertain that lol

Does that “similar security” still count if the image is hacked? Since the capability for “real” root is there.

I am reasonably pleased with my TV UI approximation. It’s an old Skylake-era CPU running Windows 10 Enterprise IoT LTSC which lasts until 2032.

I chose windows because Linux is often limited to 720p browser streaming. And I got tired of overcoming hurdles to make the thing work well, forget what they were but damn they sucked and took a lot of time. Burned through a ton of my self-allotted time fixing stuff till I just ripcorded Win 10 Ent IoT LTSC; Linux might go better for you!

Anyway, it’s at 150% desktop scale and I have the task bar auto hide. I have icons for all streaming sites, Freetube, and Jellyfin on the desktop arranged in a grid. It looks reasonably good, they open in Firefox or in their apps. I close the whole window when I’m done (I don’t use the browser’s tabs), which helps with the “TV box” feel of usage.

I have a remote that has some IR functions to turn the TV on and off and change inputs along with gyro mouse control. It’s hella China, just buy one on your relevant China source (Amazon, alibaba, etc.) - there are tons of clones. The light up feature on it makes an audible hum, so that sucks, but I don’t use it and don’t seem to miss it.

Best bonus is it blocks ads on all the streaming services I have (uBlock origin mostly, also AdGuard but I think uBlock Origin does the heavy lifting). And can turn on WireGuard for modern account sharing, going to automate it soon for certain streaming services.